Wonderfully intense yet strikingly fine for the variety, this Pinot Meunier bursts with bright strawberry and red cherry fruit. There’s an undeniable joie de vivre here, with none of the weight or heaviness that might obscure its immensely moreish character. Just 12% abv, yet with remarkable depth of fruit.

I’m delighted to have secured a small allocation of this remarkable bottling. Deep in colour, it hails from a block planted in 1965 — the first Pinot Meunier vineyard outside Champagne. Decanter awarded this vintage an outstanding 97 points, describing it as “ethereal”.

At present, the wine shows a firmer structure, with the fruit still somewhat monolithic, closed, and embryonic. With a little patience, however, it will reveal its full grace. Best stashed away for a few years.